“A native of Caracas, Venezuela, he spent a decade working in fine-dining restaurants, including Mugaritz in Spain, the French Laundry and Gordon Ramsay at the London. His dishes at Martha are a genial kiss-off to that world, intentionally disheveled, favoring big flavors over polish and nuance.”
“Mr. Valbuena’s dishes have the noisy forthrightness of good garage rock: an unkempt crumble of ground duck, five-spice powder, soy sauce and Shaoxing wine over house-made egg noodles; broccoli rabe in Chinese black bean sauce escalated with Korean chiles and chips of fried garlic; snow peas flustered by horseradish and dangerously lolling Thai bird chiles. Among these, a plate of raw fluke tempered with yuzu and bejeweled with salmon roe comes off as an acoustic number, meditative and lovely.”
If ever there were a joint that dispelled the myth that red wine should never be served with fish, it would be Martha, named after the patron saint of cooks.
And that’s just one of the reasons we are proud that they currently serve Cantele Negroamaro by-the-glass at Martha.
The other reason is “intentionally disheveled.”
Image via the Martha Brooklyn Facebook.